One of the most limiting factors of openpilot for developers is the snpe’ified TensorFlow vision model. Qualcomm SNPE is defined as Snapdragon Neural Processing Engine SDK, which is a platform to convert existing TensorFlow, Caffe and maybe some other models to a dlc file container format for acceleration on Qualcomm hardware, most commonly found in mobile phones.
The reason why this is limiting is that running openpilot on different hardware such as x86, Google Coral and Raspberry Pi with TPU is not immediately possible as there isn’t a snpe GPU accelerated runtime available for non-Qualcomm platforms. Newer platforms such as the Snapdragon 855 are benchmarked to have a 5x snpe speedup vs the comparatively ancient 821 in the LEX727 and 3T.
With all this said, there’s really nothing stopping you from running OP on another SNPE supported device but camera interfacing. It’s rumored that getting visiond to work with a phone’s camera is the reason why we still use IMX298 based hardware as camera manufacturers don’t publish specs, drivers and configs.
It’s become more complicated to train your own model now, as comma now performs vision radar, laneless, and coming lane change in their models; which isn’t trivial to develop as the subject matter is not well published online or in academia. You may want to target openpilot 0.5.8.
I’m not going to go into too much detail in training your own models, but I will point you to https://paperswithcode.com/task/lane-detection which is an excellent resource for lane models, complete with papers. Your objective is to input a camera image and output polys, and probabilities.
Specifically, all you need is a left lane poly, right lane poly, and the probabilities of each. You don’t even really need polys, 50 points each will suffice, as the conversion from points to polys is in code, not from the model.
This is from opc.ai back when it was around. RIP Oppey.
• Feel free to use your own parameters if you have some that are already working, but it’s also fun to start from “scratch” and experiment to learn the full impact of each change.
• Start with Kp = 0.25
• Start with Ki = 0.03 (Set low on purpose)
• Start with Kf = 0.00003 (Set low on purpose)
• Start with steerActuatorDelay = 0.1 (unless someone else has already found a closer value for your car)
• Start with steerRatio = factory spec
• Start with steerRateCost = 0.5
• Start with tireStiffness values of whatever you have stock in interfaces.py. Honda civic defaults are around 200000.
Drive on a straight road with OP engaged.
Kp will be the first parameter that we adjust, starting from Kp = 0.25
• If OP is oscillating back and forth around center, it will either be a slow or fast oscillation depending on how high/low your Kp is. We’re looking for a small amount of slow-ish oscillation.
• Increase Kp to 0.5, then decrease to 0.1. Choose the “best” one and split the difference between it and 0.25. Set Kp to the new value in the middle.
• You’re looking for no fast wobble around center. You want a lazy wobble around center, or ideally a fairly solid hold on center without any abrupt movements.
• Choose the best of 0.25, the extreme value, and the new “split difference” value. Split the difference again in the best direction and continue this process until Kp is optimized.
• You may need to re-tune this at slow speeds (10mph) and fast speeds (60+mph) and possibly even use speed-dependent Kp values as mentioned in the “Background” section above.
• If there are high winds or the road has significant camber then you may experience the car drifting to one side and OP adjusting the wheel only in one direction (always adjusts to the right, etc). This is okay. Keep focused on back AND forth oscillations of the wheel take take you across the center of the lane (slow or fast).
• Don’t drive yourself too crazy on this, as we still need to tune steerActuatorDelay to get the best performance.
• steerActuatorDelay adjusts the starting orientation of the car which is fed into the MPC in order to account for the delay between the measurements and the response to a commanded output. The delaycurvature_factorsteerRatio product needs to match the response of your car.
• steerActuatorDelay should be adjusted in the range of 0.025 to 0.200 in 0.025 increments (0.025 – 0.050 – 0.075 – 0.100 – 0.125, etc)
• Find the setting that provides the least amount of wobble around center. You should see a dramatic difference between 0.025 and 0.200, and somewhere in-between should be a “best” setting.
• Some truly bad MDPS systems may even need delays above 0.200?
Adjust Kp slightly up and down to see if you can further optimize it now that the ActuatorDelay is set.
Adjust Ki to help with constant offsets like wind, cambered roads, etc.
• Increase Ki to 0.2, then try 0.1, 0.05, etc. Find the value just before it begins to do a slow overshoot, correct, overshoot, correct pattern.
• Again, you’re looking for no movement around center or a very slow and gentle movement around center.
Now try taking some turns and adjust Kf.
• First make sure that OP is properly identifying the lane lines in the turn you are attempting to take. Not just the green path, but the actual lane lines on each side as well.
• If you’re having an issue initiating and holding turns, try increasing Kf. 0.00006 is the typical value used, and somewhere between 0.00003 and 0.00010 will probably be appropriate.
• If you increase Kf to help in turns, you may need to decrease Kp slightly if oscillations have increased. If you have increased Kf too much then it may not be possible to compensate with Kp changes.
• There is a balancing act between Kf/Kp/Ki that you are trying to find.
• If the car is too far right in the lane, try decreasing camera offset from the stock value of 0.06 to something like 0.03 or 0.0.
• If the car is too far left in the lane, try increasing camera offset by 0.03 at a time.
Adjusting tireStiffness changes the curvature_factor used in the MPC.
• Feel free to play with the tireStiffness values. The stock Honda civic values are around 200,000. Yours may be slightly higher or lower.
• Values between 50000 – 300000 are probably worth playing with.
• While tuning, try to keep them at the same value as generally they end up pretty close to each other anyway (within 5-10%)
Adjusting steerRateCost will affect how eager the car is to make sudden direction changes.
• steerRateCost around 0.7-1.0 will feel very sluggish and unwilling to make direction changes.
• steerRateCost around 0.5 is a nice median.
• steerRateCost around 0.3 or less will feel extremely darty as the lane has minor deviations or the path changes.
• steerRatio will have a large impact due to it essentially scaling Kf/Kp/Ki together (steerRatio is multiplied by the MPC’s calculated steering angle delta, and this result is then multiplied by the gains).
• Changing steerRatio will require scaling Kf/Kp/Ki as well in order to regain the tuned performance. It will be a dramatic change.
• I don’t bother changing steerRatio from spec once Kp and Kf have been tuned since the only other minor impact on lateral control it has is on the VehicleModel slip factor / curvature_factor calculation which is then fed into the MPC & the actuator delay orientation calculation.
• My advice: leave it alone
latPidDeadzone shouldn’t need to be messed with (defaults to 0).
Hugging left? Hugging right? Hugging in curves? Re-mounted your Eon so many times that you’ve invested in a gallon container of goo-gone? Fear not, you’ll become a CAMERA_OFFSET variable pro in no time.
What is CAMERA_OFFSET?
CAMERA_OFFSET: The distance, in meters, from the center of vehicle to the openpilot device’s camera module.
This variable can be found in:
selfdrive/controls/lib/lane_planner.py in OP 0.6.3 and above (as of this article date)
selfdrive/controls/lib/model_parser.py in OP 0.6.2 and below
The default CAMERA_OFFSET is 0.06 meters, meaning, your openpilot device should be mounted dead center, with the camera module 0.06 meters to the driver’s side for lane centering.
But openpilot hugs too far left, or right!
Calm down now, it’s alright. Most people drive a bit right on two lane, opposed traffic roads (such as state highways) for comfort. openpilot, on the other hand, wants to drive in the exact center of the lane, which is handy for its intended use case: on the interstate.
But, I want Openpilot to drive further to the passenger side anyway. I do most my driving on two lane, opposed traffic highways, localroads, etc!
Fine. Lower the CAMERA_OFFSET value to move the car within the lane to the passenger side, heighten it to move the car to the driver’s side of the lane (Left hand drive). Negative values are okay and work perfectly fine (such as -0.06). The only issue here is that it impacts corner centering and you could find yourself hugging in curves. It’s best to just get used to being center in the lane if you don’t feel like maintaining your own fork (comma, PLEASE parameterize this value, and make it accessible in the settings UI).
Corner hugging fix example for those with OP dev experience (I use this with INDI, which always hugs; but the same concept can be used for any control scheme):
Sure thing. Move your Eon’s mount further to the driver’s side to move the car towards the passenger side. Move the mount further to the passenger’s side to move the car towards the driver side. Keep in mind the 0.06 meter factory offset, and you’ll be good.
Doesn’t this value “learn” over time anyway?
No, and it never has (at least since I’ve been involved with OP, starting in version 0.5.8).
Long story short, you can go nuts with the measuring tape, lasers, and all sorts of stuff; but unless you are blind, just mount the OP device itself (NOT THE CAMERA MODULE) to the center of the windscreen as best as your eyeballs can get it. If it’s off, it’s likely going to be off by a few cm anyway, a little more at the most; but are you really going to notice being an inch or two closer or further from center of the lane anyway?
But, I still hug in curves!
Yep. Follow my blog, I’ll have an article out about steerRatio and tuning sometime soon. In the meantime, check out my OP observations after my 3,000 mile road trip here. It explains, briefly, why OP hugs curves.
This trip wouldn’t of have been nearly as comfortable, or possible without my custom steer angle sensor (ZSS – Zorro Steer Sensor). Stock Toyota steer angle sensor on TSS1 cars is garbage. Not only is it only 0.5 degrees precise, but also can be up to 2.5 degrees lagged per any tilmestep due to torsional effects and backlash in the steering column between the sensor and the EPS assembly.
jsh348 has designed a custom PCB and he just so happens to live down the road from me. Small world! It’s absolutely insane that something like this is being manufactured based on such humble beginnings.
On to the random observations (on 0.6.2)!
The stock MPC costs are fine. Rate cost of lower than 1.0 on Toyota is uncomfortable on the interstate (even 0.7). Same for Path, Heading and Lane costs
INDI always oversteers in curves. You can fix this with my desired angle hack, but even then it needs more work as 3 degree longer curves are still ridden (especially left, for whatever reason)
CAMERA_OFFSET may be a factor in riding curves. I have mine set to 0.0 which is comfortable in two lane opposed traffic (further right), but may be a contributor to curve hugging
Static, factual steer ratios are critical for good lat perf, if you have a static ratio rack! Most do since EPS torque is modulated on speed and angle. Why? OP needs to know how much steering wheel angle for tire angle, stock OP values massively oversteer in curves due to invalid MPC estimation/vehicle model curvature planning. This has also been verified on 2020 Corolla on 0.6.3
The stock INDI values are fine, but you can drop timeConstant to 0.1 if running with ZSS (4,3,0,1). I’d imagine on TSS1.5/2 vehicles with 0.056 precise sensors, you could also run with a lower timeConstant
My fixes for lane width and right exit diving on 0.6.2 still works better than 0.6.3 exit diving
0.6.3’s lane-less model can lead to erratic behavior when lane confidence is low. I’m not too hard on it as it is the first release of the path planning/laneless model
Road camber handling is still a problem. Maybe this’ll be enhanced soon
Camera focus in heavy rain can be an issue as it focuses on the rain droplets on the windshield instead of the road, leading to vision failure/disengagement
My battery less setup of 3.8v slowly “discharged” over the course of 13 hours, leading to a “Low Battery” disengagement for the last hour of the drive. Power cycling reset the “timer”. Higher voltage may be needed
Openpilot’s long control leaves much to be desired. Stop and go, even with pedal, is unusable. Much effort in rewriting some of the long code led to good results, but then stopped far too close for comfort in some instances. I’m running stock long (DSU connected) and you should, too. (Apart from the extremely irritating Cruise Fault regression which requires a full reboot of Eon, and that Automatic Emergency Braking is disabled with DSU disconnected)
Use deadzone, or round the desired angle (and steering angle, if using ZSS) to two decimal places. If using deadzone, set to your steering sensor factor. Desired angles that are several decimal places long just act as noise to the torque controller (PID, INDI, LQR)
I look forward to getting my hands on 0.6.3 in depth once I return, especially to see if my static steerRatio hacks still hold water, as apart from good angle data, has proven to be the greatest enhancement for OpenPilot.
I have plans to get my hands on a 2018 C-HR actuator assembly to compare the differences, and see if I can dump firmware to bring good stock angle to Priuses. The part numbers are the same, at the least I’ll perform a swap of the units and writeup my experiences.
First post on the new blog! It feels good to be back at it again. I’m going to go ahead and stick these in a Category called OpenPilot.
These designs are for the OnePlus 3t. I’m unsure if they would fit a LeEco, however my LeEco arrives today (and I’ll be designing cases for it).
First off, we have what I call ZorroCase Minimal. It’s a clamp of sorts that fits into a $9 car mount. The goal here was to come up with an alternate way of mounting Eon that couldn’t fall off my windscreen.
Next up is a case I call ZorroCase Naked. It’s a clip based on the FrEon 24 degree mount back when the repo was labeled “Open Source”.
This mount directly attaches to the heatsink and then to a GoPro mount. This means that you’ll need to affix your heatsink using thermal adhesive or some other method, as the heatsink becomes a part of the phone’s structure.
This design has been created with a built in tolerance of 0.3mm, and a further tolerance to be printed in PLA and annealed (which causes some contraction). I baked this print (that I printed out of clear PLA) into the oven at 200F for 30 minutes to heat treat it (greatly increasing its heat resistance) and fits perfectly. YMMV.
These cases were created out of a desire to reduce complexity and print time. The OpenFrEon, for example, has about a 12 hour print time, which is brutal when you need to print several to find tolerances when annealing.